10-HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID

📋 Quick facts

Description: 10-HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID — SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING.

All Functions: SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

Quick Facts:

• Category: emollient

Proven Benefits At A Glance:

• 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA) is a fatty acid with a hydroxyl group (OH) attached to its chain, giving it special properties
• It can be made from oleic acid (a common unsaturated fat found in oils) using specific bacteria or enzymes
• Research shows it can form stable foams and has surfactant properties—meaning it can help with cleaning applications
• It occurs naturally in some biological systems, though primarily through bacterial activity
• The R-form (a specific molecular shape) of 10-HSA has been the focus of recent skincare and industrial research

⚗️ Chemical Overview

(R)-10-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid is a hydroxy fatty acid that is octadecanoic acid (stearic acid) in which the pro-R hydrogen has been replaced by a hydroxy group. It is a conjugate acid of a (R)-10-hydroxyoctadecanoate.

Source(s): ChEBI, via PubChem

📊 Comedogenicity

🛡️ Safety rating

Safety tier is a starting heuristic from regulatory status and comedogenic rating, not a dermatological verdict — see our Terms for the full disclaimer. Research confidence reflects how many real cited studies back this ingredient, not the strength of their findings.

🌍 Regulatory Status

💧 Skin Type Compatibility

⚠️ Don’t Combine With

📚 Research & Evidence

🔬 The Science

10-hydroxystearic acid is a modified fatty acid belonging to a family called hydroxylated fatty acids. What makes it special is the hydroxyl group (a chemical group containing oxygen and hydrogen) positioned along its carbon chain—specifically at the 10th carbon position, which gives the molecule its name. This positioning is important because it affects how the molecule behaves and interacts with other substances (Int J Mol Sci, 2020). #1: Surfactant and foaming properties: Recent research published in Molecules (2023) examined R-10-HSA (the pure R-form) in aqueous solutions and found it capable of forming stable foams. When researchers tested this foam on model surfaces, they demonstrated it could be used for cleaning applications, specifically for spore removal.

The study noted that R-10-HSA behaves differently at the molecular level than its more well-known cousin, 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), largely because the 10-HSA used was a pure single form (enantiomer) rather than a mixture of forms. #2: Natural occurrence and production: While 10-HSA was historically believed to be widely distributed in nature, research in Z Naturforsch C (2000) clarified that the compound is primarily generated by bacterial activity—specifically, bacteria produce it by chemically modifying oleic acid. This process also occurs in mammalian tissue and some biological samples, but again through bacterial conversion rather than direct natural synthesis. For skincare and industrial applications, 10-HSA is now deliberately produced using microorganisms (bacteria or enzymes) that convert oleic acid into 10-HSA under controlled conditions (Biotechnol Lett, 2011; Appl Microbiol Biotechnol, 2012).

#3: Structural properties: In various solvents and formulations, 10-HSA displays intermediate behavior between related molecules in terms of gel and crystal formation, with the ability to form stable gels in certain oils while crystallizing in others (Int J Mol Sci, 2020). The sources provided do not contain direct evidence of skin benefits, penetration rates, or cosmetic efficacy in human skin.

📄 Related Research

Matched by search — not necessarily verified support for every statement above.

• Asaro F et al. (2020). (R)-10-Hydroxystearic Acid: Crystals vs. Organogel. Int J Mol Sci.
• Dari C et al. (2023). Ultrastable and Responsive Foams Based on 10-Hydroxystearic Acid Soap for Spore Decontamination. Molecules.
• Adam P et al. (2000). 10-Hydroxystearic acid–identified after homogenization of tissue–is derived from bacteria. Z Naturforsch C J Biosci.
• Kim BN et al. (2011). Conversion of oleic acid to 10-hydroxystearic acid by whole cells of Stenotrophomonas nitritireducens. Biotechnol Lett.
• Kim BN et al. (2012). Production of 10-hydroxystearic acid from oleic acid and olive oil hydrolyzate by an oleate hydratase from Lysinibacillus fusiformis. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol.

🧴 Products Containing 10-HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID